I have heard a lot of discussion over the years about hook selection for buzzers, I like to have both straight and curved flies. For the purpose of this step by step I am using a Kamasan B110 grub hook. Some people say that the curved hooks spin in the water which is not the desired effect. So the use of straight hooks such as B175s are used. No matter once you can tie the fly the hook is irrelevant.

I like to use UTC waxed thread as I find this gives a more pleasing finish to the fly as you can see from the picture the diameter is 140. I have cast the thread onto the hook using touching turns until I reach what will be the tail of the fly.

I am going to tie in a little hot spot this can often trigger a take from a passing fish where the plain version will not. I have tied in a small piece of Glo-Bright No 4 to create my hot spot.

For the rib I am going to use a piece of stripped down peacock herl, once varnished this adds a new dimension to the fly. Wind the stripped peacock herl up to the point of the hook where you are going to build your thorax and secure it.

I am going to use goose biots for the cheeks they are easy to work with and you can get some very vibrant colours. Some use floss or various crisp packets, each to their own. For this fly I am going to use orange biots.

Once you have the biots in place it is time to start building the thorax I like to try and keep it proportionate to the body.

When the thorax is complete you can pull the biots forward to complete the cheeks, securing them at the eye of the hook. Remember with any fly you are tying leave enough room to build and finish the head.

The most time consuming part of this fly is the layering of the varnish, I tend to have a little production line on the go adding a thin coat of hard as nails every fifteen minutes or so.  

The finished product sinks like a stone and is a proven fish catcher.